Exclusive Interview: The LPF Meets Theo Fennell
Priya Rawal, Founder and CEO of The Luxury Property Forum sits down with
London’s favourite jeweller, Theo Fennell
Theo, you have been such a great friend of The Luxury Property Forum and we are honoured to sit down with you today. You are renowned in the industry for creating the most unique jewellery. What makes the brand, Theo Fennell special?
It has always dedicated itself to original design and craftsmanship, making work that has some emotional heft as well as beauty. Work that becomes important to its owner, precious in the way we feel jewellery should be, rather than a statement of power or wealth. We have never made fashion jewellery or anything in big quantities.
Tell us about those early days in starting the business. What was it like?
I had built up a following by word of mouth as there were no social media then and it was becoming impractical to wander around to people’s houses, in the evenings until very late, showing them the progress of their job, or bits to buy and so it seemed practical to get a small shop with a workshop attached. The move necessitated forming a company. No-one involved had the first idea about business and it was very tough, and my naivety allowed me to be exploited and caused some very bad decisions!
Well the success that you have had over the years has been amazing. You are clearly still so creative. What do you enjoy most about the design process?
I love the trawling through all sorts of catalysts which I know will ignite some inspiration. Music, books, theatre, pictures and buildings, all manner of things that slap my creative juices into life. I am lucky, I have a mind like a badly ordered junk-shop but I can see into its darkest corners quickly and, once I’ve got the flavour, the rest just flows and that is a wonderful feeling.
Your passion is undeniable! So what excites you about your work so many years on?
Our work is, predominantly, one-offs and bespoke work so there are always new designs to do and new clients to work with, so it never gets stale. There are new skills and techniques to learn and new artisans to discover. I work with and mentor a lot of young students and craftspeople so watching their progress is compelling. We are unlike the vast majority of jewellers in that we are designing and making everything here so it is not really a business, but a craft centre and we can watch everything develop so it is never anything but fascinating.
After 25 years, you moved the business from its famous location on London’s Fulham Road to a new gallery at Chelsea Barracks in Belgravia, London. Tell us about the decision to move?
Many things just came together in a sort of Kismet way. We built the Fulham Road from scratch, but the lease came up for renewal after 25 years. The landlords had been of no help through Covid, and the rent was ludicrous. Before lockdown ended, the then majority owners of the company offered me the chance to buy them out and I took it. Having only been a minority shareholder for nearly 40 years - due to youthful naivety – it seemed a good chance to make a new start in a different but appropriate location. It was a great decision and we all couldn’t be happier here.
It’s a fantastic location and we are so pleased for you and the team. And if it’s possible to choose, what has been your career highlight so far?
Pretty much every day has a highlight if you are passionate about what you do so it is difficult to pick one out. We have a kind of tradition that any finished, polished piece is wrapped up in tissue by the polisher so only they have seen it finished. We then all gather round to unwrap and see it ourselves it’s like opening a present every time. That’s a highlight!
That’s an excellent way to look at things! And you are now a published author and I love the title of your memoir “I Fear for This Boy: Some Chapters of Accidents”. How did that come about?
It was a bit of fun, really written for my family and a few friends. A collection of accidents and comic disasters that had befallen me over the years meant to amuse and almost nothing about jewellery. I was very surprised that it was published, even more surprised that so many people bought it and flabbergasted when someone optioned it and hired the brilliant Ian Martin to turn it into a telly series. I loved writing it and am halfway through another.
Amazing and cannot wait till the next one. You have mentioned your love for mentorship and working with young people. What would be your advice for someone looking to venture the luxury jewellery space?
Learn how everything is made and understand all the techniques and materials before you do anything else, even if you’re not going to make anything yourself. No-one can design, curate or even retail jewellery unless they have this education. If you’re going to design, make sure you have a great passion for jewellery and that you have an original and personal voice. Lastly you must be tenacious. There are armies of dilettantes in the jewellery world who somehow think it is easy to get by without effort, practice, passion, or knowledge. It seems to have become a go-to world for people who have little or no perseverance or talent as they see it as a sort of glorified hobby. To get really good at it, like anything, you have to work really hard, at the rate you need in any other creative endeavour. So, if they’re not prepared to put in the hours, to do something else.
There is no substitute of hard work! And given everyone deserves a holiday, if you were on a desert island what would be your “luxury” item?
A guitar.
And finally, luxury means different things to different people, what does luxury mean to you?
A thing or an experience that is absolutely perfect, regardless of how long it takes to create. It should be overseen or made by the greatest artists, artisans or practitioners using the very best materials, regardless of cost. Lastly, it should be something nobody really needs and way above any normal experience. So, it can be the perfect hot bath, the most beautifully cut suit or cobbled shoes or the best seats in the house, a perfect Martini or the time to sit on a park bench on a gorgeous day. It certainly isn’t a mass-produced bangle or handbag, expensively packaged and available at every airport.
Thank you Theo so much for your time and we are thrilled to be visiting you at the London Gallery with our LPF Members later this month!
get in touch
The Theo Fennell team would be delighted to welcome you to their London Gallery. If you have any questions about their jewellery or silverware, or if you would like to book a consultation, they look forward to hearing from you.
2 Garrison Square,
Chelsea Barracks,
London SW1W 8BG
020 7591 5003
customerservice@theofennell.com